Happy Holidays!

At Left: Spike, George and myself in front of the Christ-Mao Tree. Christmas day 12:30am. We've got a party planned for tomorrow evening, 8pm, just as the East Coast kids shake their parents bodily from bed. 

I find myself pining for the small traditions, the cookies, the singing in church, having the west coast Willises altogether, and I resolve to spend next year at home. Christmas came quietly this year; although everyone here knows about Christmas, some aren't sure of the exact day, and few Beijingers  celebrate it ('few' of course being a relative term). I'll save my acid remarks for another time (re: xMas in general, and the Beijing version)

For the handful of friends I have left in Beijing, I am grateful. I look forward to coming home to America (which I appreciate eons more from afar). 3 weeks, see you all then! Oh, and I didn't forget, but a small package out of Beijing costs about $50 US (I can only afford that mistake once), so the gifts for everyone will have to wait till mid-january. Maybe you'll be more surprised then? Happy Christmas!!!

Day in the Life Photos

Miriam had an idea. Since Christina, she and I are all 8 hours apart, we essentially cut the globe in thirds. So for 24 hours, each of us took a photo on the hour (more or less). At some point we may combine them in a more side-by-side format, but here are the results for now.

Beijing, China: Click here for my results.

Berkeley, USA: Here are Christina's photos.

Accra, Ghana: Miriam's photos.

A Series of Disconnected Thoughts

Cold: My Uncle shouts at me when he sees me walking around the house without slippers. "You'll get sick! Put on some slippers! Put on some socks!" He shows he cares in unexpected ways. Apparently, in Chinese medicine, getting cold feet is the fastest way to get sick. The coldness will first grasp hold of the feet, if you are not careful, then move up the body as if sucked-up through a straw. It will come to rest somewhere in the upper body, and you will become sick.

Street Food: Fresh-boiled corn (the kernels jump off the cob and melt in the mouth) best eaten while biking, hot-roasted sweet potatoes (so sweet!), sunflower seed cakes, egg-crêpe thingy (street artisans form these in seconds before your eyes. Filled with a choice of veggies, meat and spices). Street food is a way to make a dull walk or moment suddenly alive with flavor. Used strategically, it is the same as happiness (since it's basically free).

Little Sister: I took her out to buy the evening paper (a bit above her reading level, but you gotta start them early), and we stopped by the pond first. This is little-little sis, so intrepid, and completely unaware of danger! She ran back and forth across a series of stones over the pond... it would have been so easy for her to fall in. What goes through these kids' heads? Afterward, on the street we held hands and weaved carefully through pedestrian traffic. Since we live across from the subway station, there are, at all hours of the day, hundreds of people, dozens of taxis and buses, impromptu sock stalls, mobile bookstores and the flavors of street food floating above it all like a tricky ghost.
People stared: 'foreigner... five year old girl... should I call the police? no... is he the father!? no, what's going on here?' We got the paper and made it back in one piece. Additionally (and unrelated), the only word she can say in English is 'banana.' Sometimes I try to correct her on her pronunciation. It's a losing battle.

Traditional China: When an American student comes to China, to Beijing, what are they looking for? It's hard to remember at times the feeling of excitement I felt before coming. But, we travel, inevitably, because we hope to find something different, and some hope to learn something along the way. Sitting atop a mountain on the outskirt of Beijing with my friend, we talked about the search for Chinese culture. We agreed that though there are the obvious things (which I struggle to enunciate) about Chinese culture, we still feel at times that we have to 'search' for it. Beyond political differences, there's a kind of Americanization of China that is ominously, if only slightly, evident. Maybe commercialization would be a more appropriate term.

And though I balance these discomforts against the sentiment that I'm probably overlooking the simple things that separate the Bay Area from Beijing, I cannot shake a premonition: In the future, some strange amalgamation will emerge, some beastly concoction of years of human development and creativity. This, the new world culture, uniform. The 'best of' each country squeezed through the meat grinder of the media. The result, ground chuck. Hamburgers all around.

Hmmm... yes, this is dramatic. I'm generally not given to such apocalyptic fantasy. I'll try to elaborate on this idea more, and give some concrete examples of Chinese culture, and how (from the uterly biased view of the outsider) it relates to this idea of 'tradition.' My glasses are broken, but I'll look and see anyway.

bā lái kè • ào bā mǎ

“And to all those watching tonight from beyond our shores, from parliaments and palaces, to those who are huddled around radios in the forgotten corners of the world…”

Big screen projection, basement of the history department in the long-forgotten city of Beijing. Then again, I don’t think Obama was necessarily addressing Americans studying abroad.

I’ve always felt a bit strange when hanging-out with other expatriates. We’ve found life abroad too arduous, turned our backs on China, and instead cling helplessly to our perfectly fluent English conversations. So I usually keep this kind of thing confined to the weekends.

But on November 5th, general rules of engagement were thrown-out the window. We had an election to wrap-up, so I went to hang with the expats. Though I’ve been an Obama supporter, but (almost) always restrained, imagining only a few social improvements sprinkled here and there, with a modest respect for the environment thrown-in to round out an Obama presidency. Maybe some foreign policy improvements, but then no, that’s just getting greedy.

On this day, all skepticism was trashed like tainted milk. We were a jubilant, silly-happy group of Americans. Americans- I like the way that sounds.

My memory’s not so hot, but there’s some things I know I will remember forever: Dad lowering his head in silent disappointment when the first report of the Iraq invasion flashed across the screen in 2003, my first wedgie (date lost to history), and the feeling of ridiculous, unstoppable hope that I finally felt when Barack took the stage (If we met, I’m pretty sure he’d want me to call him Barack).

“I will never forget who this victory truly belongs to. It belongs to you.”

I don’t know why this resonated with me so, but at this point I thought of all the friends and family who worked to make an Obama victory a reality.

My grandma Dorothy in Ohio, who went door-to-door for the campaign in a battleground state and worked the polls on Election Day.

My friend Oki, off somewhere in Florida acting as a ‘regional campaign director.’ Truth be told, I have no idea what he did, but it worked.

Friends back in Berkeley campaigning like crazy.

In short, thank you my fellow Americans.

We’ve got something on the horizon, and I can’t say what it is, but from that moment it seemed that if he promised to put an end to global climate change by late February, I’d buy it. Though that feeling has worn-off, a pride in my country endures. An international symbol that is not wrapped in brand-name packaging, bearing only promises of consumption. A symbol who seems to stand for life rather than war. A man who proves that America can change, if only a little.

Happy trails, Dubya. Without you, America could never have known what the pits feel like, and what looking up to change means. We’ll even let you keep the office warm for us til ’09.

Things to keep in mind- “two wars, a planet in peril, the worst financial crisis in a century,” and a rejection to grant our homosexual brothers and sisters the same rights that everyone else enjoys. After all, America’s still a piece of work.

PS Happy 19th birthday Dan!

Clarification: My Beijing Family

One Father (ShuShu)

Business man of unknown variety, enjoys smoking, sitting on couch (shirtless) and yelling. If our interests were compared by Venn Diagram, the two circles would have enough space between to pass a dragon boat, sideways. When we met I said, "what do you do for a living?"
He replied, "Business!" and turned back to the television. That was day one.

One Mother (AiYi)
Very kind but also busy with the kids. Hails from near the SiChuan province, famous throughout China for its spicy cuisine. Red peppers are her native tongue. I'm concerned that she works to hard around the house, but my offers to help are generally refused.

Paul, age 8
The son, my "little brother" (DiDi). My efforts to further his English education are beleaguered by his short attention span, approximately equivalent to a small Chihuahua. He has the most animated face I've ever seen, straight from the pages of his Tom and Jerry collection. He also plays a mean fiddle.

Mona, age 8
Not related by blood, as far as I know, but still Big-Little Sis. When I got the gig, I was never told there were two kids. Mona's reasons for living here are unclear- though I've met Mona's real mother, she comes and goes, but her child remains. Slightly mysterious. Mona is much easier to teach than Paul, but she's still excitable, and has the most pitiful expressions when upset. Her face just melts.

Bella, age 5?
A little girl cloaked in mystery. About two weeks ago I woke-up to find a third child living along. I think she's actually related to AiYi, but still... where did she come from all of a sudden? She's certifiably insane, normal at this age I think, and is REALLY happy ALL the time. And laughing all the while. She's actually very cute, but the only thing I can understand is her, "GeGe, how AWWE yooooo? tehehehee!" seven times each morning. In my defense, Mona and Paul can't understand her either- she speaks a southern dialect with a lisp. Also, I gave her the name "Bella"! I've named about 8-9 people since I've been here.

Penthouse- Ok, our building only has six floors, but our flat is at the top, and it's pretty dern nice. We live in a place called LongZeYuan or "Dragon Swamp Garden." I took some liberties with that translation.

Trying Again- Little Sis

I've been going about this all wrong. I'm still learning how to write a blog....

[note: the following conversation was translated from Chinese]
This morning my little sister Mona excitedly whispered across the breakfast table... "there's ducks near here!"I was a bit distracted trying to eat my hard boiled egg (i hate hardboiled, but everymorning nonetheless), and it took me a minute to understand what she meant. "Big Brother, wanna go? We can check them out on the way to school."
"Well, I'm not sure I'll be able to get to school on time" (like the egg, getting to school on time is a challenge)

She would not be deterred. So I agreed, despite worries. Mona is the queen of MoCeng. The first time I heard my host mom (aka- Aiyi or "Aunt") shout, "Bie MoCeng, a!" I knew immediately what it meant- quit screwing around and get to school, in not so many words. But I originally thought the direct translation was something like "massage the floor," (it made sense at the time). I later realized it was more like "rub-rub". Anyways, Mona's great at wasting time in the morning, by playing tabletop soccer with her egg or trying to figure out how best to dispose of the uneaten yolk without AiYi noticing.

I waited for her, and the excitement of the ducks seemed to put a pep in her step. We were out the door in record time and on our way to school, plus detour. Going down the six flights of stairs she sang a Chinese version of Oh, Susanna that she'd picked-up at school ("A-la-ba-ma" and "lu-ci-a-na" are quite distinct even in Chinese). [note- the above link is not related to this blog in any way]

Downstairs I caught a glimpse of the treat the ducks were in for, as Mona took off running through the crisp autumn air. At her footsteps a small flock of birds disjointedly fled to the nearest willow tree. "What was that for?"
"I was trying to catch one!" she replied, her condescending tone belying the silliness of my question- Obviously, I was trying to catch one, you dumb egg.
"What would you do if you caught it?" I continued, no less baffled.
With big innocent eyes she cooed, "Just pet it a little bit," and had hardly finished speaking before she took-off running again, as I was left to wonder what happened to the slow-moving girl I had come to expect in the mornings.

We reached the pond, and as promised there were ducks. Mona's chatter was far to great to record fully here, but I stayed and watched a while as she both talked and ran circles around the poor birds. They still had not woken-up, several were standing pond side on a single leg and sleeping. Nonetheless, they received no mercy at the hands of this eight-year-old, who managed to startle several into flight and retreat, in the relative safety of the water. At this I chuckled and told her I had to go, but after a few steps she cried, "GeGe, GeGe! I touched a duck!" The thrill of a lifetime apparently.

It's like having kids without actually having kids. It's a sweet deal.

Too Many Photos

New Photos! (click here)

I suggest not looking at them all at once, unless you're killing time at work. Includes Gold Medal Volleyball, Trip to HeNan, and Special Olympics at the Bird's Nest.

Some of these photos definitely require explanation, soon forthcoming.

Apologies

Hello again everyone! Sorry for being an irresponsible blogger. Here's the short version of the last 20 days:

End of Stanford-Peking U Program:
A whirlwind of exams, Beach Volleyball Gold Medals and banquet. Sadly, on my last night with Stanford friends I was kicked-out of one of Beijing's nicest clubs. Apparently they want you to wear shoes. Next morning I caught an early train to 漯河 LuoHe in the 河南 HeNan province. I slept for most of the eleven hour journey... the Stanford program was nothing if not intensive. The Chinese countryside between 北京 BeiJing and 河南 HeNan looks a lot like Ohio. Corn, corn, corn, and the occasional nuclear cooling tower. Weather's pretty similar to the Midwest as well.

河南 HeNan:
Ten days of feeling uber-foreign began as soon as I got off the train. 漯河 LuoHe is not a small city by American standards, weighing-in at 2.57 Million people, but it feels a small for China. Upon seeing my glimmering white skin (and mild confusion), taxi drivers descended voraciously, but I managed to ignore their lies ("absolutely no more buses today!") and find a cheap bus ride.
I traveled to 河南 HeNan to teach english, at the invitation from a Chinese friend I'd met in 北京 BeiJing. So I did that, and climbed a mountain, got some free massage, ate crabs, drank beer with middle school kids and learned to cook some Chinese cuisine. And made some close friends. On a strange note, because of my appearance, about 80% of people I passed on the street in 河南 HeNan openly stared at me. Small children sometimes yelled out, "外国人!” (foreigner!), and babies looked at me with a mixture of confusion and fright.

北京 BeiJing Again:
I've moved-in with a Chinese family: "Aunt" and "Uncle" are probably in their late 30s, and "Little Bro" is eight. I'm still not exactly sure why, but his female "cousin," also eight, lives here as well. The food is excellent, the kids are hilarious, but overall I'm still getting used to living here. I'm also trying to figure out how to teach english to two kids who just want to mess around, as this is my sacred duty one hour each day.
I'd write more now, but classes at Beijing Language and Culture University started earlier today. So I have to get up at 6AM for my 8AM classes. Wish me luck! I promise more posts!

中国和美国- China and America

For you Californians, 6PM Wednesday is the Women's Beach Volleyball Final (other time zones do the math). Look for me, I'll be in the 12th row! I'm prepared rep the US as we defend the gold... 美国加油！ Go America!

Marathon Women

Addendum to a previous post: During the opening ceremonies, the Peking U. Students were cheering for Iraq because, in my friend’s words, “they know their country is going through the pain of war.”

After another late night on the town, I managed to struggle out of bed early. The women’s marathon conveniently cuts right across campus, approximately 200 yards from my bed. I bounded across this distance like an overeager gazelle. As the first place runner approached, I snapped a photo through the trees:


As you can see, not the most poetic of photographs. Subsequent attempts also proved fruitless. I quickly gave up, and just watched. Eyes inevitably beat camera. These women were incredible, muscles tensing and shifting with each step, simply flying by. And you could see the effort written in their faces: this race is foot pounds road meets pain. Another thing that struck me was the power of sport to attract such a diverse group of women. It's a shame it went by so fast.

More photos (not the marathon, more exciting stuff)! GoldenBearTri

下一场雨－ A Rainfall

Just got back from lunch in a torrential downpour. It’s coming down out there like it never does in the Bay Area. So I’m standing soaked in the middle of my room eating a piece of watermelon and listening to the nearby thunder. Watermelon is my favorite fruit; I see nothing but red juicy flesh and black seeds.

From the cafeteria to my dormitory is only about a 2 minute walk, but I still don’t own an umbrella. I walk bravely through the rain in my shorts and flip-flops, puddle-jumping, singing an old song and splashing my way across the square. People tend to stare, cowering under overhangs or throwing strange glances out from under their protective shells. It makes one think that Beijing people are afraid of getting wet. Oblivious, Californians act a bit nuts in the rain. My friend reports getting caught in the rain while running, continuing with a huge smile on her face, and receiving open laughter from passersby on the street. Not jeering, just bewildered.

We can’t help being a spectacle sometimes. My friends went to the US- Nigeria soccer game last night (I stayed home), took their shirts off to spell out 美国加油！（go USA!). My roommate took a video…. probably 30+ people began taking photos. When it hits youtube, I’ll let you know.

Try to post some picture and write on touristy-type activities later today.

Olympic Vignettes

空气－ Air

2AM on the eight day of the eighth month, our taxi flew by the slumbering Bird’s Nest (鸟巢). The air slightly grayed the red glowing embers within the stadium’s latticework. Sleepily traveling the 4th ring road, I experienced the effects of Beijing’s pollution for the first time, a foreboding experience preceding the opening of the games.

I’ve been studying here for two weeks already, but have largely ignored any poor air quality. Of course, I can see the haze that pushes the nearby summer palace a dream’s depth from Peking U. But contrary to my expectations, I run here without feeling short of breath, my eyes do not burn, and I cannot smell Beijing smog. My classmates complain of all these things and more. I thought they were exaggerating their plight until now. Our driver, a quite fellow compared to other cabbies, has left the windows down to combat the stickiness of the humid night. So in rushes the cool breeze of the freeway, but with it the infamous ghost that haunts the anticipation of Beijing’s Olympics. It felt like sitting in a cool yet smoky bar. To the eyes, it makes Beijing appear older and more mysterious.

志愿者－ Volunteers

Timeout－小张 is just awesome. He hooked me up with a pair of tickets to watch the opening ceremony alongside several thousand Peking U Olympic volunteers. Big ups, dawg.

I walked into the crowded (yet orderly) auditorium as anticipation was quickly building. Confusingly, there was a German volunteer on stage, who after a short message launched into some brave but misguided karaoke, a Chinese song. Thoroughly butchered it (harsh words, but I call ‘em like I see ‘em). The next pre-game performance was volunteers from outside of Beijing, who in a show of gratitude to their hosts wrote and performed a parody of the ubiquitous (seriously, I hear it multiple times daily) 北京欢迎你 －Beijing Welcomes You. There’s was called Peking U Welcomes You, and the crowd loved it, laughed and began singing along. The words were projected on the screen, so it was like a gigantic group karaoke performance.

And then the CCTV coverage began. The crowd oohhed and ahhed at each new trick, each dance and drumbeat, and I felt that there was a sense of pride in each reaction, ‘This is our Olympics, this is China showing the world.’ Unfortunately I can’t provide hard facts to back that up, but I just got a feeling. It’s probably a safe bet considering the crowd was largely volunteers.

美丽－ Beautiful

The Chinese student in the seat next to me helped me understand some of the nuances of the ceremony, but was also hilarious to behold. During the entrance of the athletes, whenever a beautiful girl appeared, he began clapping, WOWing and his butt began lifting out of his seat, as if the gravitational pull of the screen were too great. Fittingly for a college audience, the rest of the auditorium followed suit: it turned into an international beauty contest. NBA players and Roger Federer drew huge reactions. But what really fascinated me was their reactions to each country:

Following rather gratuitous applause, my excitable neighbor explained simply that relationships are good between China and Pakistan. Same reaction for Cuba: “Because you two have the same style of government?” I asked in Chinese. “Exactly,” he replied. Others big reactions include North Korea, Hong Kong, Chinese Taipei and many of the Middle Eastern countries, including Iraq, Palestine and Israel. England, the US and Canada received polite applause, while Germany and Australia fared much better. Of note, whenever CCTV showed a dignitary, regardless of the country, the audience applauded soundly. I thought I heard some laughter during Bush’s applause, but I might have imagined it.

And then China came in, Yao Ming manning the flag. The reaction was grand, but not as great as I’d expected. But most of the crowd was on its feet, and I felt as if the games had really arrived at that moment.

Great opening, and an amazing way to see it!

Madness (and promises)

The city is buzzing right now with Olympic fervor. More on that later.

My language tutor is an Olympic volunteer, and he gave me a ticket to watch the opening ceremonies in the Peking University auditorium with all the other volunteers. In my estimation it's the next best thing to being at the Bird's Nest... if the crowds for the torch relay are any indication, this city is ready to get rolling. I imagine that these college students, many of whom have been putting tons of time into the games, will be a raucous crowd. Perfect.

The ceremony begins in about an hour (5AM California time). Needless to say, I've been busy, but I have posts in the works: Touristing, Great Wall Photos, the Summer Palace, Olympics (air quality), Chinese Friends, Dinner with American Friends and Life in General.

祝你奥运快乐！ Happy Olympics!

PS Also going to one of the biggest parties in the city afterwards. Huge rave in an old warehouse. Raves aren't normally my thing, but I'm stoked anyway.

New Video: Break Dance

Youtube: Forbidden City
Don't be deceived, the video will work. Just click it.

网到了！ － Internet has Come

Now I'm connected.

FIXED THE VIDEO! CLICK IT, it should work now.
Most recent youtube post: Temple of Heaven



PHOTOS! PHOTOS! PHOTOS!
Photobucket Link: GoldenBearTri


The trick will be finding time... out on the town tonight....

Expectations

Doing things like standing beneath a waning moon, listening to the deafening roar of the crickets... this makes me feel nostalgic already for home. That I've had little time to enjoy these things in the madness of Chinese courses means little; I already know that this is a cool, clear, shimmering moment that I'll miss.

I know little about the life that actually awaits me in Beijing. Here are the things I've imagined for my future: running through the city in the early morning, passing parks filled with people doing their morning exercises. Enjoying the bustle of university life. Challenging myself to make Chinese friends... in the classroom? on the basketball court? through tutoring English? Also, traveling on subways, crowded streets (like a real city), maybe a little bit of extra attention for my skin color/ country of origin (but not that much... it is Beijing after all, and it's an Olympic year).

Madness of the nighttime. Sticky heat, Chinese history and monuments during the long afternoons. A family that wants to bring me in, but finds that the differences are very great. Agreeing with people about the ills of America, then turning around and feeling in my heart that there's something special about America, especially California, that I'd missed all along, having never known anything different. Colors, lanterns, songs, smiles, confusions, temples, low-level political apprehension, fireworks, city lights at night, rice wine and white rice. A learning curve with Chopsticks.

Later... we've arrived. I'll write more later. I just want to say thank you to everyone who helped me travel. I'm loving every moment so far.

Further readings:
'The Eight Don't Asks' - guardian.co.uk
'Sichuan Earthquake Political Aftermath' - nytimes.com